Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo 1990
The next day, I took a sip in the early afternoon. The wine was still firm, but its structure had softened just enough to unleash an entirely different spectrum of flavours. Now there was mushroom, earth, herbs, and faint hints of smells our species probably hasn’t experienced for millenia. But none of these flavours were obvious – they were as nuanced as language. Just as the simple juxtaposition of two words can produce insight into a well-trodden concept, Giacamo Conterno’s Barolo told me something I had never noticed about Barolo before, even though all of the underlying notes were the same: Barolo is majestic because of its contrasts.
After 22 years, the tannins were still firm. In fact, it is unlikely they would soften up much more. Yet, the texture of the wine was as perfect and silky as the greatest of Burgundies. The aromas are immediately pleasurable, but the flavours of the wine can be off-putting: beauty with ugliness. A pretty wine that is as mottled and tobacco-stained as an old drifter’s coat. And yet, somehow, it all makes sense.
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot – Among the “Must-Haves” for 2010 ~ and beyond « Christopher Massie on Wine
Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot – Among the “Must-Haves” for 2010 ~ and beyond « Christopher Massie on Wine
Having heard much recently of the rise in popularity of this estate with multiple international wine critics as well as professional sommeliers, I made a point to elbow my way through the crowd surrounding Virgile’s booth at this year’s Grand Jours De Bourgogne. Tasting his wines revealed not only some of the highlights of the event, bit likewise one of the wines of the vintage.
Based in Morey-Saint-Denis on the Rue des Jardins, just around the corner from Domaine Perrot Minot is one of the oldest properties in the village. Originally established at the end of the last century (circa 1900), today’s Domaine Lignier-Michelot – its stone walls modernly adorned with a strikingly red metal Domaine placard – reflects the dedication and determination of one man: Virgile Lignier. As the third generation of vignerons to tend the family’s holdings, he is the first – and only – Lignier insistent upon estate bottling – and so much more.
Virgile’s ancestral line before him witnessed the splitting of the family property throughout the 1900s, with his grandfather (Maurice Lignier) being the first to plant vineyards on their holdings, which spans some 21 acres across Morey, Chambolle and Gevrey. In the 1960s, Virgile’s father continued the vineyard work, taking over for Maurice, being content to sell the family’s production to local negociants. Joining his father in 1992, Virgile would begin instituting many of the improvements witnessed in his wines today – beginning with estate bottling.
Having heard much recently of the rise in popularity of this estate with multiple international wine critics as well as professional sommeliers, I made a point to elbow my way through the crowd surrounding Virgile’s booth at this year’s Grand Jours De Bourgogne. Tasting his wines revealed not only some of the highlights of the event, bit likewise one of the wines of the vintage.
Based in Morey-Saint-Denis on the Rue des Jardins, just around the corner from Domaine Perrot Minot is one of the oldest properties in the village. Originally established at the end of the last century (circa 1900), today’s Domaine Lignier-Michelot – its stone walls modernly adorned with a strikingly red metal Domaine placard – reflects the dedication and determination of one man: Virgile Lignier. As the third generation of vignerons to tend the family’s holdings, he is the first – and only – Lignier insistent upon estate bottling – and so much more.
Virgile’s ancestral line before him witnessed the splitting of the family property throughout the 1900s, with his grandfather (Maurice Lignier) being the first to plant vineyards on their holdings, which spans some 21 acres across Morey, Chambolle and Gevrey. In the 1960s, Virgile’s father continued the vineyard work, taking over for Maurice, being content to sell the family’s production to local negociants. Joining his father in 1992, Virgile would begin instituting many of the improvements witnessed in his wines today – beginning with estate bottling.
Mapema « Sharon's Wine Line
Mapema « Sharon's Wine Line
2009 Mapema Malbec (SRP*: $19):
Teamwork is the hallmark of Mariano di Paola and his staff. He’s one of Mendoza’s “Deans of Winemaking” and teaches young winemakers at Don Bosco University.
This Mapema has aromas and flavors of black cherries, black raspberries, blueberries and plums, dark chocolate and mint. It’s spicy and fruity, made from 83-year-old vines, and as good on the second day as the first.
2009 Mapema Malbec (SRP*: $19):
Teamwork is the hallmark of Mariano di Paola and his staff. He’s one of Mendoza’s “Deans of Winemaking” and teaches young winemakers at Don Bosco University.
This Mapema has aromas and flavors of black cherries, black raspberries, blueberries and plums, dark chocolate and mint. It’s spicy and fruity, made from 83-year-old vines, and as good on the second day as the first.
Vic & Anthony's Steakhouse adapts to life on Park Avenue - Houston Chronicle
Vic & Anthony's Steakhouse adapts to life on Park Avenue - Houston Chronicle
"This place has much better seafood options than most New York steak houses," Richman observed as he scanned the menu. He got the waiter to agree to see if the music volume could be lowered (it could) and wrestled some more with the slippery-slidey wine-list pages. There were some serious bargains among the Rhones, and after a spirited discussion with the sommelier on duty, he settled on a 2007 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by René Rostaing, a favorite producer of his.
"This place has much better seafood options than most New York steak houses," Richman observed as he scanned the menu. He got the waiter to agree to see if the music volume could be lowered (it could) and wrestled some more with the slippery-slidey wine-list pages. There were some serious bargains among the Rhones, and after a spirited discussion with the sommelier on duty, he settled on a 2007 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by René Rostaing, a favorite producer of his.
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Just outside Santa Cruz, a quiet vineyard revival
Just outside Santa Cruz, a quiet vineyard revival
A small boost came with interest from vintners a bit farther afield - Sonoma labels like Wind Gap, Ghostwriter and Arnot Roberts, and from wineries elsewhere in Santa Cruz, like Storrs and Big Basin. There's also a new acquisition of land near Corralitos by Rhys Vineyards' Kevin Harvey, who has invested in proving the potential of soils farther north in the appellation, in the hills above Cupertino and Palo Alto.
A small boost came with interest from vintners a bit farther afield - Sonoma labels like Wind Gap, Ghostwriter and Arnot Roberts, and from wineries elsewhere in Santa Cruz, like Storrs and Big Basin. There's also a new acquisition of land near Corralitos by Rhys Vineyards' Kevin Harvey, who has invested in proving the potential of soils farther north in the appellation, in the hills above Cupertino and Palo Alto.
Previewing Rosé Season 2012 With NYC's Top Somms - Wine Hotness - Eater NY
Previewing Rosé Season 2012 With NYC's Top Somms - Wine Hotness - Eater NY
Cantalupo Il Mimo 2011, Italy
"Made from high-altitude nebbiolo in Colline Novaresi, with firm tannins to back the juicy, cranberry-cherry fruit profile."
Thomas Pastuszak, Nomad
Cantalupo Il Mimo 2011, Italy
"Made from high-altitude nebbiolo in Colline Novaresi, with firm tannins to back the juicy, cranberry-cherry fruit profile."
Monday, March 19, 2012
Sicilian Reds Harness a Volcano's Energy
<b>Sicilian</b> Reds Harness a Volcano's Energy: I've never seen Mount Etna, or even been to Sicily. ... 1 wine, the 2002 from Calabretta, demonstrated how well they can age, and how time in the bottle can ...
Thad Cox Jr.: Wines from Argentina that break the mold » Knoxville News Sentinel
Thad Cox Jr.: Wines from Argentina that break the mold » Knoxville News Sentinel
Another Argentina producer that has strayed from the mainstream is Luca Winery. Owned by Laura Catena, Luca Winery's mission is to produce small production wines by working with the best growers within Argentina. While they do produce an outstanding Malbec, my favorite wine from them is the 2010 Laborde Double Select Syrah. That's right, Syrah. Boasting the structure and weight of a full-bodied Barossa Shiraz with the complexity and flavors more reminiscent of a California Central Coast Syrah, it's all here in this full-bodied, bold red. A perennial 90+ point rated wine from The Wine Advocate; the 2010 version keeps the rating streak alive and can be found for under $25 a bottle.
Another Argentina producer that has strayed from the mainstream is Luca Winery. Owned by Laura Catena, Luca Winery's mission is to produce small production wines by working with the best growers within Argentina. While they do produce an outstanding Malbec, my favorite wine from them is the 2010 Laborde Double Select Syrah. That's right, Syrah. Boasting the structure and weight of a full-bodied Barossa Shiraz with the complexity and flavors more reminiscent of a California Central Coast Syrah, it's all here in this full-bodied, bold red. A perennial 90+ point rated wine from The Wine Advocate; the 2010 version keeps the rating streak alive and can be found for under $25 a bottle.
Sommelier Talk with Patrick Cappiello | Sommelier Talk | News & Features | Wine Spectator
Sommelier Talk with Patrick Cappiello | Sommelier Talk | News & Features | Wine Spectator
WS: What are your picks for wines to drink on special occasions?
PC: Champagne. What better way to celebrate? And right now it's just such an exciting time for grower Champagnes in this country. In any other country, especially in Europe, Champagne's not just a celebratory thing. It's a way to start a meal. Great producers like Bouchard and like Jérôme Prévost are making single-varietal Champagnes, single-vintage Champagnes, single-vineyard Champagnes that are very much like wine. They're almost like Burgundies.
WS: What are your picks for wines to drink on special occasions?
PC: Champagne. What better way to celebrate? And right now it's just such an exciting time for grower Champagnes in this country. In any other country, especially in Europe, Champagne's not just a celebratory thing. It's a way to start a meal. Great producers like Bouchard and like Jérôme Prévost are making single-varietal Champagnes, single-vintage Champagnes, single-vineyard Champagnes that are very much like wine. They're almost like Burgundies.
Are Americans' Tastes Changing? | Drinking Out Loud | News & Features | Wine Spectator
Are Americans' Tastes Changing? | Drinking Out Loud | News & Features | Wine Spectator
Witness the recalibration among an increasing number of California winemakers as to what constitutes "ripeness" in a grape. In a reaction against the wine version of "dark-roasted grapes,” newer producers such as Rhys, Copain, Arnot-Roberts, Peay, Kutch and Parr, among others, have put their pocketbooks where there palates are by making wines (mostly Pinot Noir, as well as Syrah) with alcohol levels as low as 12 percent. Longtime producers such as Mayacamas, Au Bon Climat and Cathy Corison, among others, have quietly gone their own restrained way for decades.
Witness the recalibration among an increasing number of California winemakers as to what constitutes "ripeness" in a grape. In a reaction against the wine version of "dark-roasted grapes,” newer producers such as Rhys, Copain, Arnot-Roberts, Peay, Kutch and Parr, among others, have put their pocketbooks where there palates are by making wines (mostly Pinot Noir, as well as Syrah) with alcohol levels as low as 12 percent. Longtime producers such as Mayacamas, Au Bon Climat and Cathy Corison, among others, have quietly gone their own restrained way for decades.
Friday, February 3, 2012
The Chicago Wino: Owen Roe - How you swoon me...
The Chicago Wino: Owen Roe - How you swoon me...
One of the things I learned this past year, and highly recommended to you, is to taste Owen Roe Winery from Washington. I have not had a bad wine from them yet. They really have a tasty line! Here are some of my favorites to keep me warm in the winter:
• Yakima Valley Red Blend 2009 (59% Merlot / 24% Cabernet Franc / 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, $42): Aromas of red flowers, red and black plums, cranberry sauce and blackberry currant. Flavors of tart red cherries, blueberry cobbler, and raspberry give way to a balanced tannins and finish with warm, lingering Madagascar vanilla and black licorice. The winery states, "It smells like Merlot, drinks like Cabernet Franc and finishes like Cabernet Sauvignon!" Drink now or age this seductive wine for 10-20 years.
One of the things I learned this past year, and highly recommended to you, is to taste Owen Roe Winery from Washington. I have not had a bad wine from them yet. They really have a tasty line! Here are some of my favorites to keep me warm in the winter:
• Yakima Valley Red Blend 2009 (59% Merlot / 24% Cabernet Franc / 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, $42): Aromas of red flowers, red and black plums, cranberry sauce and blackberry currant. Flavors of tart red cherries, blueberry cobbler, and raspberry give way to a balanced tannins and finish with warm, lingering Madagascar vanilla and black licorice. The winery states, "It smells like Merlot, drinks like Cabernet Franc and finishes like Cabernet Sauvignon!" Drink now or age this seductive wine for 10-20 years.
Rhône Around the World: Owen Roe, 2010 Sinister Hand, Columbia Valley
Rhône Around the World: Owen Roe, 2010 Sinister Hand, Columbia Valley
Owen Roe is committed to practicing the highest standards of winemaking. Since the first vintage in 1999, Owen Roe winery has been working to produce exceptional wines from fruit sourced from small vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the Yakima Valley in Washington State, a place where the fruit ripens slowly and fully, resulting in excellent acidity and balance, in an effort to showcase the best expression of each variety.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)