Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Sunday, June 12, 2011
2010 Rosés Part II: Best of Rosé Fest and More
2010 Rosés Part II: Best of Rosé Fest and More: "
2010 ROSÉS PART II: BEST OF ROSÉ FEST AND MORE – Chez Jon and Kira, San Jose, California (5/28/2011)
My rosé of the year so far, and the best non-sparkling rosé I’ve ever tasted, with a score of 93 points, is François Chidaine’s Touraine Val de Loire. Not only is it an admirable wine on its own–with complexity, definition and delicacy–it also pairs wonderfully with a great many summery dishes (e.g., from light salads and pastas, to hearty fish soups and veal dishes). It’s also an excellent value at about $14. I’m a big fan of this producer for his excellent single vineyard Chenin Blancs, from top vineyards in Vouvray and Montlouis. This rosé is as beautifully and thoughtfully crafted as those great, ageworthy Chenin Blancs, from a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Grolleau, a dark red grape found mainly in the Loire, where it is nearly exclusively used for rosé wines.
From the U.S., my favorites, at 91+ points each, are the Copain and Ojai Rosés. Both are minerally and delicate, with medium to near medium acidity, in contrast to the fruity and lower acid rosés that have been more typically produced in this country (although from my tastings in the last few years, I think that’s very much changing in favor of more balanced, higher acid style rosé). The Copain is made from Pinot Noir, by Wells Guthrie, a winemaker who excels with Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley. The Ojai, from winemaker Adam Tolmach, is based largely on Syrah from the Roll Ranch Vineyard, with 5% each Grenache and Riesling.
French Rosés
More Great European Rosés
2010 ROSÉS PART II: BEST OF ROSÉ FEST AND MORE – Chez Jon and Kira, San Jose, California (5/28/2011)
My rosé of the year so far, and the best non-sparkling rosé I’ve ever tasted, with a score of 93 points, is François Chidaine’s Touraine Val de Loire. Not only is it an admirable wine on its own–with complexity, definition and delicacy–it also pairs wonderfully with a great many summery dishes (e.g., from light salads and pastas, to hearty fish soups and veal dishes). It’s also an excellent value at about $14. I’m a big fan of this producer for his excellent single vineyard Chenin Blancs, from top vineyards in Vouvray and Montlouis. This rosé is as beautifully and thoughtfully crafted as those great, ageworthy Chenin Blancs, from a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Grolleau, a dark red grape found mainly in the Loire, where it is nearly exclusively used for rosé wines.
From the U.S., my favorites, at 91+ points each, are the Copain and Ojai Rosés. Both are minerally and delicate, with medium to near medium acidity, in contrast to the fruity and lower acid rosés that have been more typically produced in this country (although from my tastings in the last few years, I think that’s very much changing in favor of more balanced, higher acid style rosé). The Copain is made from Pinot Noir, by Wells Guthrie, a winemaker who excels with Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley. The Ojai, from winemaker Adam Tolmach, is based largely on Syrah from the Roll Ranch Vineyard, with 5% each Grenache and Riesling.
- 2010 Ojai Rosé – USA, California
Light salmon color; nice light tart orange, floral, mineral, chalk nose; tasty, tart orange, chalk, juicy palate with floral edges and with near medium acidity; good value; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2010 Copain Tous Ensemble Rosé – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Light medium salmon pink color; intriguing, light roses, hibiscus, potpourri nose; tasty, delicate, elegant, light red fruit, hibiscus, roses, tart orange palate with medium acidity; medium finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
French Rosés
- 2010 François Chidaine Touraine Val de Loire – France, Loire Valley, Touraine
Light orange pink color; nice floral, hibiscus, tart cherry, mineral nose; delicate, floral, tart roses, mineral, tart orange palate; quite stunning; medium-plus finish (great value at about $14, if you can find it; 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Grolleau) (93 pts.)
More Great European Rosés
- 2010 Château La Canorgue Côtes du Luberon Rosé – France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Luberon (6/8/2011)
Light salmon color; lifted, ripe orange, light cherry, peach pie nose; tart orange, tart grapefruit, mineral, fresh lemon juice palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 points)
Lunch for/with Anthony Hwang (Domaine Huet l'Échansonne) @ Masseto.
Lunch for/with Anthony Hwang (Domaine Huet l'Échansonne) @ Masseto.: "
This past Monday, the 16th May 2011, was lunch at Masseto for visiting Philippine born, now New York-based winery owner Anthony Hwang. It was a smallish affair with barely 15 persons in all. Though known more for his jewel of Vouvray, Domaine Huet, not very many know that Anthony also owns Domaine Királyudvar of Hungary.
I arrived pretty much on time but many were already there: among others, IWFS President & Wine Master Bernie Sim, Freddy Pio de Roda, Michael Uytengsu and some friends from the Peninsula Hotel (photo above). Assorted pica-picas were being served with cool glasses of...
2008 Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec - I have virtually no experience with dry Hungarian furmint secs, save for the broad, masculine and overtly oaked 2003 vintage of Vega Sicilia owned Oremus Mandolás Tokaji Sec which I paired once with raclette. The subject furmint sec, in contrast, is notably svelte, crisp, purer, cleaner and evidently very well-focused with dry white peach, white florality, hint of white grapefruit and an alluring cold, wet stone nuance. Lean, clean, dry and pure, it also has lip-smacking, appetite enhancing acidity. More complex than one's usual summer wine, this is perfect for our weather - all two seasons of it. Nice.
Anthony spoke on the histories of Huet and Királyudvar, the factual details to be found at the herein-linked websites. The common underlying philosophy, however, is respect for terroir and vines (Huet was certified biodynamic over 20 years ago, while Királyudvar adopted biodynamic viticulture in 2008) and using modern, non-intrusive methods to let the wines achieve their greatest potential. I, personally have always appreciated Huet's wines, even before I visited the Loire. For Vouvray wines, while there are, undoubtedly other fine producers, in my opinion, one wouldn't be missing all that much if one were to stick solely to Huet for one's Vouvray fixes.
With the Sole, Brown Butter Lemon Sauce & French Beans, we had the 2009 Huet Clos de Bourg Sec. I've had this before at Jojo's Huet Tasting early January of this year during which we had it alongside the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and the 2006 Huët Vouvray Le Mont Sec. My notes then were as follows (vis-à-vis the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec):
With the Spaghettini alle Vongole, we had the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec - Subtle talc/baby powder and white flowers gently infuse the deftly honey-touched quince/citrus/stone fruit. Thrilling acidity. Precise heft. Wonderful balance. Excellent with the main/pasta course. The vaguely sulfuric topnote I detected in the bottle at the mentioned January tasting was not present. Loved the wine; loved the dish; loved them together.
With the Cheese Platter and the 2009 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux, I naturally focused on the chèvre (a major product of the Loire and a natural, regional pairing for their chenin blanc and sauvignon blancs). The subject wine, a molleux, is inherently/comparatively deeper, creamier-fruited, more honeyed and roundedly heftier. Through all this, the healthy acidity and pureness of fruit (the honeyed quince notes picked up the membrillo) kept it finely balanced and precisely poised.
Dessert was a generously portioned Chocolate Hazelnut Tart which was paired with the 2007 Királyudvar Cuvée Ilona - Botrytis-touched, late harvested furmint and hárslevelű, per Anthony. This special cuvée is named after his wife, Evelyn (evidently, 'Ilona' is the Hungarian equivalent of 'Evelyn'). There is a difficult to describe sweetish/floral/vaguely banana-like topnote to the slightly spicy wild honey, preserved apricot, candied orange rind, macerated ripe pear, slight lemon custard and vanilla bean. Good lushness and palate-push, but nothing over the top at all. Again, its acidity and general sense of poise make for admirable balance and harmony.
It was an absolute pleasure to have met and spent some time with Anthony, as well as revisit the current releases in the Philippine market (Premium Wine Exchange is the local distributor of Huet and Királyudvar). Thanks to Jojo for inviting me. Until the next....
"
This past Monday, the 16th May 2011, was lunch at Masseto for visiting Philippine born, now New York-based winery owner Anthony Hwang. It was a smallish affair with barely 15 persons in all. Though known more for his jewel of Vouvray, Domaine Huet, not very many know that Anthony also owns Domaine Királyudvar of Hungary.
Host Jojo Madrid, Jay Labrador, Anthony Hwang & David Celdran.
I arrived pretty much on time but many were already there: among others, IWFS President & Wine Master Bernie Sim, Freddy Pio de Roda, Michael Uytengsu and some friends from the Peninsula Hotel (photo above). Assorted pica-picas were being served with cool glasses of...
2008 Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec - I have virtually no experience with dry Hungarian furmint secs, save for the broad, masculine and overtly oaked 2003 vintage of Vega Sicilia owned Oremus Mandolás Tokaji Sec which I paired once with raclette. The subject furmint sec, in contrast, is notably svelte, crisp, purer, cleaner and evidently very well-focused with dry white peach, white florality, hint of white grapefruit and an alluring cold, wet stone nuance. Lean, clean, dry and pure, it also has lip-smacking, appetite enhancing acidity. More complex than one's usual summer wine, this is perfect for our weather - all two seasons of it. Nice.Anthony spoke on the histories of Huet and Királyudvar, the factual details to be found at the herein-linked websites. The common underlying philosophy, however, is respect for terroir and vines (Huet was certified biodynamic over 20 years ago, while Királyudvar adopted biodynamic viticulture in 2008) and using modern, non-intrusive methods to let the wines achieve their greatest potential. I, personally have always appreciated Huet's wines, even before I visited the Loire. For Vouvray wines, while there are, undoubtedly other fine producers, in my opinion, one wouldn't be missing all that much if one were to stick solely to Huet for one's Vouvray fixes.
The Menu
With the Sole, Brown Butter Lemon Sauce & French Beans, we had the 2009 Huet Clos de Bourg Sec. I've had this before at Jojo's Huet Tasting early January of this year during which we had it alongside the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and the 2006 Huët Vouvray Le Mont Sec. My notes then were as follows (vis-à-vis the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec):2009 Huët Vouvray Clos de Bourg Sec - There was pretty much a consensus that this was the most favored Sec at this point, with Sevrine, Felicia, Barbara, J-Lab, Richard and myself giving it our nods as such. Notably fleshier, rounder, moderately softer and not as piercing, dry or challenging as the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu. More widely accessible too, I'd wager.The subject wine was a fine match for the dish. While the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu may have been an acceptable match for the Sole per se, the beurre noisette would have called for something with a little more roundness and heft, which the subject Clos de Bourg aptly supplied. The wine's stony tension and rounded heft played nicely with the nutty browned butter. I had 2 glasses with this course. Lovely.
With the Spaghettini alle Vongole, we had the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec - Subtle talc/baby powder and white flowers gently infuse the deftly honey-touched quince/citrus/stone fruit. Thrilling acidity. Precise heft. Wonderful balance. Excellent with the main/pasta course. The vaguely sulfuric topnote I detected in the bottle at the mentioned January tasting was not present. Loved the wine; loved the dish; loved them together.With the Cheese Platter and the 2009 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux, I naturally focused on the chèvre (a major product of the Loire and a natural, regional pairing for their chenin blanc and sauvignon blancs). The subject wine, a molleux, is inherently/comparatively deeper, creamier-fruited, more honeyed and roundedly heftier. Through all this, the healthy acidity and pureness of fruit (the honeyed quince notes picked up the membrillo) kept it finely balanced and precisely poised.Dessert was a generously portioned Chocolate Hazelnut Tart which was paired with the 2007 Királyudvar Cuvée Ilona - Botrytis-touched, late harvested furmint and hárslevelű, per Anthony. This special cuvée is named after his wife, Evelyn (evidently, 'Ilona' is the Hungarian equivalent of 'Evelyn'). There is a difficult to describe sweetish/floral/vaguely banana-like topnote to the slightly spicy wild honey, preserved apricot, candied orange rind, macerated ripe pear, slight lemon custard and vanilla bean. Good lushness and palate-push, but nothing over the top at all. Again, its acidity and general sense of poise make for admirable balance and harmony.It was an absolute pleasure to have met and spent some time with Anthony, as well as revisit the current releases in the Philippine market (Premium Wine Exchange is the local distributor of Huet and Királyudvar). Thanks to Jojo for inviting me. Until the next....
Back @ Champêtre w/ the Family: 2008 Királyudvar Tokaji Demi Sec & 1990 Ducru Beaucaillou.
Back @ Champêtre w/ the Family: 2008 Királyudvar Tokaji Demi Sec & 1990 Ducru Beaucaillou.: "
This past week was a busy one at work and at play, going through, among others, various anti-double taxation treaties and contracts (aside from meetings), weekday dinners for my brother-in-law and niece who are in town from Indiana (my sis didn't come along as she is busy tending to her recently opened allergy clinic there). There was also Bobby Paradies' rainy mid-week birthday golf tournament and a nice Friday night of craft beers & pizza with the Alabang group (more on those in separate posts).
2008 Királyudvar Tokaji Demi Sec - Very pure, well-focused, well-defined flavors of cold stoney, slightly off-dry/lightly honeyed pear, peach, with whispers of flowers and banana. Super clean, excellent freshness, crisp acidity and over-all balance. Excellent wine crafting here; so refreshing and food friendly.
Even the kids liked this and the bottle was quickly emptied. Wonderful with the terrine of foie gras and pretty good with the moules and escargots. This is readily available at Premium Wine Exchange for a mere P1700/bottle. You simply must.
This past week was a busy one at work and at play, going through, among others, various anti-double taxation treaties and contracts (aside from meetings), weekday dinners for my brother-in-law and niece who are in town from Indiana (my sis didn't come along as she is busy tending to her recently opened allergy clinic there). There was also Bobby Paradies' rainy mid-week birthday golf tournament and a nice Friday night of craft beers & pizza with the Alabang group (more on those in separate posts).
...Portobellos w/ Oeuf Cocotte. With all these, a bottle of...
2008 Királyudvar Tokaji Demi Sec - Very pure, well-focused, well-defined flavors of cold stoney, slightly off-dry/lightly honeyed pear, peach, with whispers of flowers and banana. Super clean, excellent freshness, crisp acidity and over-all balance. Excellent wine crafting here; so refreshing and food friendly.Even the kids liked this and the bottle was quickly emptied. Wonderful with the terrine of foie gras and pretty good with the moules and escargots. This is readily available at Premium Wine Exchange for a mere P1700/bottle. You simply must.
03 Trinchero Barbera and burgers for Memorial Day
03 Trinchero Barbera and burgers for Memorial Day: "
"
Natural winemaker Trinchero (Asti, Piedmont) has always been one of my favorite producers of Barbera. The 1996 Barbera d’Asti [single-vineyard] Vigna del Noce ranks up there with the greatest bottlings of Barbera I have ever tasted.
And so when I spied a bottle of the 2003 Vigna del Noce at the Houston Wine Merchant, I couldn’t resist picking it up — despite the fact that 2003 was a notoriously difficult vintage because of the extremely hot summer.
Tracie P and I finally opened it over the Memorial Day holiday and paired with some griddle-fired beef sirloin burgers.
The wine — vinified with native yeast and raised in traditional large casks — was hot in the glass, with a lot of alcohol for this house (due, undoubtedly, to the nature of the vintage). But it still had that bright, bright acidity that you find in old-school Barbera. The black fruit and berry flavors were chewy and rich and once the alcohol blew off, I thoroughly enjoyed the wine with my burger.
The wine wasn’t perfect: I found the alcohol out of balance with the fruit and acidity. And it probably should have been opened a few years ago.
But as we Piedmontophiles drink the last of the 03s lying around, I couldn’t help but admire this wine for being true to its place and its vintage.
Sometimes a wine is great… for not being so great…
"
Is that a piece of motherfernkin' cheese!?
Is that a piece of motherfernkin' cheese!?: "
"
Is that some old cheese?
Or some motherducken' limestone!?!?!
2010 Arnot-Roberts Watson Ranch Chardonnay.... Whoomp!
Radome Douro Rosé 2009
Radome Douro Rosé 2009: " 
"
I had never tried a rosé made by Dirk van der Niepoort. In fact, I think this is the only and does since 2004. I like to follow their experiences. It is a wise man and restless. He is a man of great culture and broad vinous commercial sensitivity. Her pink is one that I like. Alcohol (14%) without any weight. With controlled tannin (schist soils of the Fifth in Naples, ink Amarela, Touriga franca and others), with weight in the mouth (fudres fermented in French oak), but light to drink. Powerful nose and beautiful, attractive color.
Wine is a multi-purpose: as an aperitif, with fish baked or grilled, with a good chicken or other poultry. In a close and summer evening. Of course with a good pasta or pizza. This wine does not wrinkle. Slightly tannic, even with the presence of those pink character not want to lose your soul ink. Sloes. Berries. Carbon slightly yet (it's 2009!). Arbutus and fir. Gently plant. Wild strawberries. Feral as their owner, is this wine. Red licorice. It has a bitter aftertaste very attractive. Pink is one of those who appreciate a well preserved bottle year. It cost me € 8 and is a wine, right now, * * *.
Foradori Fontanasanta 2009
Foradori Fontanasanta 2009: "
"
This wine is a "coup de coeur." When I heard that Elisabetta Foradori had a dry white wine to the point, I lost the papers. My Friends Vinialia distributing it in Barcelona (in fact, I think that where they say) and quickly sold me a couple of bottles. Like almost siemper, scoring just not the price, but I remember that goes above 15 €. Who cares ... it is the first target of Elisabetta and done, also has an unusual grape: Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT with nosiola, white grapes, usually, is intended to vinsanto Trentino. Do not know why I was head of the prehistory of Mark Angeli: La Tour Blanche, Bonnezeux, ending with a dry white surrendering epustuflantes, which are wines.
The Fontanasanta 2009 is here, though it is still a few steps below the chenin blanc de Angeli. But go far. It is a complex grape, usually mature late in height and sunny vineyards. It has a great advantage for the fermentations risky: your skin is very pruinosa. I think that still is not noticeable in the Fontanasanta 2009, but everything will come ... Freshness overwhelming, swallow sharp and penetrating, with a minimum carbon at first. Farm smells like this wine, something toasted hazelnuts, a fresh egg in the field. It smells of rustic bread yeast and wine. Has friendly and flattering point of the bulb Sant Joan, skin smells muscat Teulada, when you stay with flesh in their hands. Tragus piercing is, yes, but kind. Finished with a final point something bitter and green, green walnuts. This wine *.
NOTA BENE. I do not know what's going on with Blogger but the company has spent more than 24 collapsed, without serving and trying to fix what is not known about the disappearance of all published since 11 May ... Reporting from Twitter, little and badly, but it is clear that in this book have been "eaten" the comments that some readers had since learned about wines from Elisabetta Foradori and adjacent. I'm sorry but I can not do anything. I say the comments are not available and, of course, I can not do anything other than "kick" because I have no access to anything other than the publishing tools. The comments have gone, for now. And who wants to disappear from Blogger, and, I am. I have fried.
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