A new age for California white wines - Page 8 - SFGate
2010 Bedrock Compagni Portis Vineyard Heirloom Sonoma Valley White Wine ($20, 14.4%): Fermented with indigenous yeast in neutral oak and steel barrels, Morgan Twain-Peterson's interpretation of this field blend is notably ripe, with Gewurz-like clove overtones. Sweet flavors of lychee, peach and Creamsicle, with herbal touches (thyme, chervil) that add complexity.
2009 Arnot-Roberts Compagni Portis Vineyard Old Vine Sonoma Valley White Wine ($35, 13%): Arnot-Roberts' interpretation of Compagni Portis is a counterpoint to Bedrock's - nervy and bright. Very complex, with orange blossom, greengage plum, ginger, lanolin, ripe pear and green almond. Keeps drawing you back to the glass. Keep an eye for the 2010 version.
2010 Wind Gap Fannuchi-Wood Road Vineyard Russian River Valley Trousseau Gris ($21, 13.2%): This grape was once popular as Grey Riesling, and Pax Mahle's latest version highlights the textural power of concrete eggs. Intense and tangy, yet opulent and almost chewy - like Meyer lemon rind. Mineral, apple and ripe apricot fruit.
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