Jay McInerney on Wines at Copenhagen's Best Restaurants - On Wine - WSJ
But what really distinguishes the list from other three star lists is its depth in small grower champagne and regions such as the Loire, Jura, and Beaujolais. We had a terrific Blanc de blanc from Larmandie Bernier Vertus for well under a hundred bucks, after salivating over the selection of bubblies from Anselm Sellosse. One could easily drink champagne through the entire meal.
AOC, in downtown Copenhagen, got its first star last spring, and its cuisine is only slightly less inventive than Noma’s. (We preferred the donut-like fried bread dish here to the one at Noma, which had a fish in the middle.) Its impressive wine list doesn’t blackball Bordeaux entirely, but there are less than twenty selections. Burgundy and the Rhone are very well represented, although, again, mature vintages are a little hard to find.
Grower champagnes by the glass include Cedric Bouchard’s Inflorescence.
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